
Tampilkan postingan dengan label in. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label in. Tampilkan semua postingan
Rabu, 18 Mei 2016
How much caffeine is there in decaf coffee
Welcome to QuickFix, the new label from The Toxicologist Today, where you get the answers to the most quotidian questions that youre ashamed to plead ignorance on or even ask your mates about. In the future Ill be covering issues that apparently everyone is an expert on, but only the actual experts can address them properly.
My wife asked me the other day How much caffeine is there in decaf coffee?
The answer was found in 3 seconds and is posted here from the Nescafe.co.uk website. No hussle! No scientific jargon!, just an immediate QuickFix to save you time.

I want to overdose
Caffeine in decaf coffee, [http://www.nescafe.co.uk/caffeine_in_decaf_coffee_en_com.axcms], last visited on the 5th of April 2014, last update
I want to overdose redirects you to the article by Ramalakshmi, K. Raghavan, B (1999). "Caffeine in coffee: Its removal. Why and how". Critical reviews in food science and nutrition, 39(5), pp.441-456.
Jumat, 13 Mei 2016
How to grow Babingtons Leek
Babingtons Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. babingtonii) are amazing little plants, I wrote another post on them and thought I should describe how to grow them. They are edible and perennial and a bit more interesting than a regular leek. Unfortunately they are on the brink of extinction in Australia and many other parts of the world. I am selling small bulbils of Babingtons leeks in the hope that other people will grow and enjoy them and help them to become less rare.
Here are some notes on how to grow them, please note that I am no expert on Babingtons leeks, if something I say does not work feel free to try something else. If you find some other way to grow them that works better please let me know and I will gladly pass this information on to anyone who wishes to grow them.
This is only a brief description of how to grow Babingtons leeks that has worked for me. For information on how to grow any other perennial vegetables please go to my growing notes page. To buy Babingtons leeks or other perennial vegetables, herbs, heirloom vegetable seeds, water kefir grains or milk kefir grains etc please go to my for sale page.
![]() |
| Babingtons Leek bulbs - should flower next year |
Growing Babingtons Leek from from Bulbs
At this stage I do not have enough plants to sell mature bulbs but figured I would mention it for when your plants are larger or if I ever have enough to sell them too. This is simple, plant the bulb a few cm deep and give it 15cm to 20cm or so from its nearest neighbour. Plant it about the depth of the bulbs width, if it is too shallow it will drag itself deeper with the use of contractile roots. Give it plenty of water, sunlight and mulch. You should be able to harvest the leek by cutting it near the soil and have it re-sprout, if you get the timing right and the bulb was large enough it should still send up a flower stalk. Each year if all goes well the underground bulb should divide into 2 or 3 mature bulbs for you and they may grow a few other smaller bulbs too
Babingtons Leek will die down to a bulb in summer, it may be possible to convince them to grow through but I have not tried that yet so can not comment. If storing the bulbs be careful not to leave the bulbs out somewhere to dry out too much, also be careful not to leave them in soil that is too wet as they may rot.
![]() |
| Babingtons Leek plant almost ready to flower |
If I have too many bulbils left over that sprout I plan to sell them as small plants. Much like any other variety of leek, plant it reasonably deep to encourage a long white shank. As above, plant 15cm to 20cm from its nearest neighbour, any closer than this will stunt the plant a little. Plenty of sun, water and mulch will ensure the fastest growth rate. During the first year they will be small and may not put on much growth above ground, this is normal. They will mostly take 2 or 3 years until mature enough to flower.
![]() |
| Babingtons leek bulbils - note the small size |
Growing Babingtons Leek from Bulbils
I mostly sell bulbils of the Babingtons leek, these are tiny leek bulbs that have formed on top of the flower stalk. For this reason I will go into a little more detail in this section.
Each bulbil will most likely be genetically identical to the parent (although slight mutations may occur from time to time). The bulbils are tiny, probably around the size of a pea but sometimes even smaller. Bulbils are produced in early Summer but will not grow or do anything until Autumn or Winter. They are ready when they fall from the flower stalk, I sell them when they are ready and will store and grow anything that is not sold. If you buy bulbils as soon as they are ready you have two options: you can plant straight away or you can store them for later. Each method has its merits and dangers, I will try to do a little of each to work out what is best.
![]() |
| Babingtons leek bulbils |
Planting the bulbils immediately runs the risk of rotting or being eaten by earwigs or whatever but also ensures that they will not dry too much and they are ready to grow when they need to grow. I plant the bulbils a little under the soil surface or sometimes directly on top of the soil in the light. I have heard that a grower overseas normally plants them 2 inches deep. I urr on the side of caution, if they are not deep enough they will work it out or I could dig them and replant them when they are larger, if they are too deep they may not have enough energy to reach the sunlight. It is best to plant them with the growing tip pointing up, quite often it is difficult to tell which way is up and in these instances it is best to plant them on their side. Planted on their side they will work it out, planted upside down they may die.
No matter what you chose to do the bulbils will not do a great deal of anything until Autumn or even Winter/Spring. Occasionally they may begin to grow in late Summer but only if the weather is cool. Babingtons leeks are often rather small looking plants in their first year and the next season are far larger. The bulbils will often take 2 to 3 years to be mature enough to flower, that being said if they are very happy they can flower in their first year.
![]() |
| Babbingtons leek, bulbils developing on the flower head |
Growing Babingtons leeks is simple
While it sounds like a lot of work it isnt, most people who grow Babingtons leeks have a patch of them and pretty much ignore them other than to harvest them and to marvel at their amazing flower head. Often overseas growers (I do not know any other Australian growers) tell me that Babingtons leeks thrive on neglect. I figured I would go into a bit of detail so that you have the best chances of harvesting leeks as soon as possible. I also want to make sure that if someone buys Babingtons leeks from me that they know what to expect and do not rip the plants out when they have not flowered in the first year from bulbils. The pictures of the bulbils next to the measuring tape will help to ensure that if anyone buys bulbils from me that they know exactly what they are buying.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask, while I may not know the answer I will do my best to tell you what works and does not work for me.
Kamis, 12 Mei 2016
In this petition youll find all of these facts and also your future

They have chosen to ignore that public investment in R&D is an attractor of private investment; that in an innovation State like the United States over half of its economic growth has come from innovation with roots in basic research funded by the federal government.
They have chosen to ignore that time and resources are required to train researchers. Instead, shielded by the European directive to decrease workforce in the public sector, they have imposed drastic hiring cuts at research institutions and universities. Together with the lack of opportunities in the private sector and the cuts in human resources programs, this is triggering a brain drain from the South to the North and from Europe to beyond.
Discouraged by the lack of opportunities and the uncertainty inherent in the concatenation of fixed-term contracts, many scientists are considering leaving the field, with the nature of research activities making this a one-way journey.
...excellence is the tip of an iceberg that floats only because of the body of work beneath.
They have chosen to ignore, but we are determined to remind them because their ignorance can cost us the future.
CLICK HERE TO READ THE OPEN LETTER AND SIGN THE PETITION
Selasa, 10 Mei 2016
Senin, 09 Mei 2016
Mini blue popcorn
Mini blue popcorn is heaps of fun to grow. The plants take up little room, produce cute little cobs, and the popcorn from them is fantastic.
I first grew mini blue popcorn when I was a teenager as an ornamental corn that was also fed to the chickens and things. At that time I dont think we ever popped it, I am not sure if I had even eaten pop corn back then. After I moved out of home no vegetables were grown and what was left of the seed disappeared over the years.
After moving here I decided to track some mini blue popcorn down again and grow it with my kids. My littlest boy Nanuq is particularly fond of corn and likes the colour blue. He was very excited to help me plant some blue popcorn to grow.
I started with a good number of seed, then carefully picked through it to select the best seeds both in colour and conformation to plant. I ended up planting a decent number of seeds, being a mini corn allows it to be fit into small spaces so I was able to grow more plants in the area.
![]() |
| mini blue popcorn starting to form tassels, stalks are shorter on the right hand side |
The plants grew well, most germinated and those that didnt (or were eaten by birds and things) were replanted with extra seeds. Being a small variety of corn they only reached below chest height. Completely different to the 12 foot tall Giant Inca white corn which was grown in the same vegetable garden. Only a few of the mini blue popcorn plants were multi stemmed which is unfortunate as multi stemmed plants tend to produce more cobs. The plants had to contend with grass and other weeds as well as QLD arrowroot and fruit tree roots, the stalks were noticeably shorter as they got closer to the tree.
![]() |
| Notice the brown silk forming on the cobs from the left hand plant |
When the season was over I got Nanuq to help me collect the little cobs, it was a bunch of fun. All of the kids helped me to remove the sheaths in a process that we call "pass the parcel" then the little cobs were hung up to dry completely. The cobs looked great, most were well filled out and the colour was good.
![]() |
| mini blue popcorn cob, almost dry enough to shuck |
After the cobs were dry Nanuq and I shucked the cobs. He worked for a long time shucking quite a lot of cobs with his little hands, he asked that I payed him. When I asked what he wanted to be payed (I meant "how much") he told me he wanted corn seeds. That little guy sure loves his corn seeds.
![]() |
| mini blue popcorn cobs |
When all was said and done we ended up with a decent number of cobs from multi stemmed plants or plants that produced many cobs. We decided to pop some and see what they were like. To make the results mean a bit more we also popped some popcorn from the shops as a comparison.
![]() |
| Regular popcorn on the left, mini blue popcorn on the right. Note how white it is |
The mini blue popcorn has small seeds, these seeds pop smaller than regular popcorn as can be seen in the picture above. Regular yellow popcorn pops white, the mini blue popcorn pops extra white. I dont know what is expected in popcorn but I like the little super white popcorn.
With the store bough popcorn between 85 - 90% of the kernels popped, my glass bead corn is almost popping that well. Every time we have popped the mini blue popcorn 100% of the kernels have popped. We are yet to have a single seed from the mini blue popcorn that has not popped. Clearly this variety has been bred well and whoever owned it before me had maintained and selected it well.
The mini blue popcorn tastes just like regular popcorn but feels different in your mouth. It feels less dense, perhaps fluffier, it is difficult to explain. I do not particularly enjoy eating popcorn very often, I really grow it for the kids, but I do like this popcorn. I think I dislike the density of regular popcorn and the fact that little bits get stuck between my teeth. I find this mini blue popcorn is nicer to eat.
I do sell seeds from the mini blue popcorn, they are listed on my for sale page along with the other seeds and perennial vegetables that I have for sale.
Minggu, 08 Mei 2016
Benefit Cost analysis of growing vegetables in the backyard
People often tell me that growing vegetables costs too much, or that they are cheaper to buy from the shops, my reply to them is "you are doing it wrong".
Growing vegetables will save you money. If you are spending more than you save you are doing something wrong. Grow some food, it will save you money.
Growing vegetables will save you money. If you are spending more than you save you are doing something wrong. Grow some food, it will save you money.
If you have a back yard you should grow some vegetables. It is simple and it will save you some money. I will tell you how I used to grow vegetables cheaply in suburbia with limited space and give you an idea of how much money it saved us.
Growing Vegetables in the backyard to save money
When we first bought a house with a small yard I put in a small vegetable garden, I sat and thought before each purchase as I wanted to save money. I tried to make sure that everything I bought would return the investment in 3 or less years, if anything would not return that investment I asked myself if I really wanted it. Sometimes the answer was still yes. Why did I choose 3 years, I cant remember, it is just the rule that I go by when making purchases.
![]() |
| Heirloom tomatoes - one days harvest |
Growing Vegetables in the backyard to save money
When we first bought a house with a small yard I put in a small vegetable garden, I sat and thought before each purchase as I wanted to save money. I tried to make sure that everything I bought would return the investment in 3 or less years, if anything would not return that investment I asked myself if I really wanted it. Sometimes the answer was still yes. Why did I choose 3 years, I cant remember, it is just the rule that I go by when making purchases.
When I was about to start that garden I looked for something to make it from for free. We had a sandpit in the lawn left behind by the previous owner, I dug out the sleepers and used them as the vegetable garden edging. I dug over a section of lawn that was out of the way, put in the sleepers as edging, and included some of the old sandpit sand to improve the drainage. It cost me time which I otherwise would have spent in front of the television, and I bought a cheap spade and wheelbarrow (which I needed to buy for other projects), but other than that it was free up to this point.
I needed to buy some vegetable seeds or seedlings to plant, this was my first real cost. I decided seeds were cheaper than seedlings and offer the best return on my investment. A packet of tomato seedlings costs about the same as a single tomato plant and can be used to grow many tomato plants over several years. I also decided that any seeds I bought must be of things that I could grow out and save seed from each year or of something perennial that would not need replacing each year. This makes seed buying a once off expenditure so even if they never break even they will still be providing me food for years to come. At that stage I had no intention of ever selling seeds or breeding my own superior varieties, I was only planning on saving a little money by growing vegetables in my spare time. Saving seeds lowers costs dramatically, you should save some seeds for yourself.
I normally dont include costs and things in blog posts as they vary from place to place, but to demonstrate how growing vegetables in the backyard is far cheaper than buying them from a shop I am going to include some dollar amounts here. I am also going to try and be realistic and include things where you may lose money.
![]() |
| Yellow pear tomato, seeds are cheap and yields are high |
Benefit/Cost comparisons of growing vegetables in the backyard versus buying vegetables
I payed $3 for a packet of tomato seeds so I wanted to get at least $3 of tomatoes in less than 3 years. That was my goal, everything had to break even within 3 years. I cant remember how much each plant produced, or how many plants I grew that first year, but all together they returned about 12 kg of fresh tomatoes. According to this site one kilogram of tomatoes costs about $5. Not surprisingly one single tomato plant returned a lot more than $3 worth of tomatoes in a single season. I am not talking organic gourmet tomato prices (even though I grow everything organically and I probably have what is considered gourmet varieties), I always calculate using the cheapest vegetable I can find. I then saved seeds from those tomatoes and actually still have that variety today. That was 12kg of tomatoes the first year for $3. Already, with that one purchase of tomato seeds, I had lowered the costs of my fruit/vegetables a tiny bit. I was already ahead. We were already saving money by growing vegetables.
If you are not breaking even in under 3 years you are doing something wrong, perhaps you are growing the wrong variety or perhaps tomatoes or whatever it is are not suited to your climate and you should grow something else.
When I payed $7.50 for a kilogram of seed potato that first year I wanted to get at least $7.50 worth of potatoes in under 3 years. The first year that 1kg of seed potatoes returned 20kg of good sized potatoes plus a few kg of smaller ones that I saved to plant the following year, the second year they only grew 15kg of large potatoes plus some to save, the third year they yield 8kg. Thats right, I keep pointlessly accurate records of things like this. So for an initial $7 investment I got 43kg of potatoes over 3 years, not too bad. Again, if you are not at least breaking even you are doing something wrong. The average price of potatoes is around $3.78 per kg, so around 2kg breaks even. The $7.50 for seed potatoes was well worth the investment especially considering the 20kg return the first year. It is not difficult to save money by growing your own food in a small backyard garden.
That first year we spent $10.50 on tomato seeds and seed potatoes and ate around $135.60 worth of fresh produce. It is not difficult to see how much money can be saved by growing a few vegetables at home.
We grew a few other things that first year, almost all of them returned far more than I payed for them. Beans and snow peas grew tremendously well that year and I saved seed to grow in following years. As well as providing a delicious crop, being legumes they also sequestered nitrogen from the air and made the soil more fertile and productive which was an added bonus.
Some seeds I bought did not provide great yields in that tiny vegetable garden. It is important to know that this is going to happen too.
I bought multi coloured carrot seed, they grew well but when carrots cost $0.65 per kg I did not get $3 worth of carrots out of them that first year due to lack of space. I probably got about 50 cents worth of carrots. I saved some of their seed and planted the following years, to be honest I dont think I ever got $3 worth of carrots from them and should have probably stopped growing them. You need to grow a lot to break even when they cost so little from the shops. Space was the limiting factor there. I was not saving money by growing carrots so I stopped growing them and used the garden space for more productive and worthwhile crops.
That first year we spent $10.50 on tomato seeds and seed potatoes and ate around $135.60 worth of fresh produce. It is not difficult to see how much money can be saved by growing a few vegetables at home.
| Perennial leeks, plant once harvest forever |
Some seeds I bought did not provide great yields in that tiny vegetable garden. It is important to know that this is going to happen too.
I bought multi coloured carrot seed, they grew well but when carrots cost $0.65 per kg I did not get $3 worth of carrots out of them that first year due to lack of space. I probably got about 50 cents worth of carrots. I saved some of their seed and planted the following years, to be honest I dont think I ever got $3 worth of carrots from them and should have probably stopped growing them. You need to grow a lot to break even when they cost so little from the shops. Space was the limiting factor there. I was not saving money by growing carrots so I stopped growing them and used the garden space for more productive and worthwhile crops.
I bought an apple tree in our second year to plant by the fence, after counting and weighing the apples that we ate from that tree (I cant help but to weigh, measure and record certain things) and factoring in the cost of apples of the same variety from the shops I found that I broke even part way through the second year. There is no point using the cost of organic apples as I would not buy them, I would buy the cheaper ones.
I was also given some strawberry plants which performed wonderfully, it is difficult to work out how much they saved us as I would never buy strawberries because they are too expensive and do not taste very good. These plants did replace other "afternoon tea" and "dessert" type foods so actually did save us a decent amount of money. Considering that they cost me nothing to begin with I was more than pleased.
![]() |
| Herbs are worth growing, but they probably dont save you money |
Then I bought some things that I had never seen in the shops, things like yacon. I figured this was dead money as it was not replacing anything I would (or even could) buy. I was willing to proceed as everything else had grown so well and lowered costs. The trick here is not to ensure that each individual plant breaks even, but to make sure if something will lose money that you are aware of it before hand and have accounted for it somewhere else.
The yacon grew amazingly well, the kids and I love to eat it. It had saved us no money as it was not even replacing some other fruit or vegetable. Yacon roots secrete sugars into the soil and attract and feed beneficial soil life such as earth worms. Everything that grows near yacon seems to be larger and healthier, so it probably does save us money in some way that is too difficult to calculate. Yacon is a perennial vegetable and I still have that same yacon growing today, it is one of my all time favourite vegetables. I believe it was money well spent.
Production costs of growing vegetables in a small suburban backyard
People often complain about all the hidden costs which I have conveniently ignored so far, what about fertilisers, pesticides, herbicides, water and most importantly time? Again I say if you are not saving money by growing vegetables then you are doing it wrong. Lets look at these hidden costs.
People often complain about all the hidden costs which I have conveniently ignored so far, what about fertilisers, pesticides, herbicides, water and most importantly time? Again I say if you are not saving money by growing vegetables then you are doing it wrong. Lets look at these hidden costs.
Fertiliser
People often complain about the cost of fertilisers when growing their own food, I have never used them. You dont need to use them in a backyard, it is cheaper not to.
When we lived in town I would compost the lawn clippings as well as tea bags, egg shells and whatever vegetable scraps we had and use that as fertiliser. It was virtually free as we were using an otherwise wasted resource and the vegetables grew tremendously well with that as the only fertiliser. The soil got richer and more fertile each year, this cost us nothing.
After a while we got chickens and also used their manure and bedding as fertiliser. Someone gave us their old guinea pig, this little guy worked tirelessly eating weeds/grass and turning that into manure. He lived a long life with us, reaching a ripe old age of about 7 eating nothing but grass and weeds and producing high quality fertiliser for us. I miss him, he was a hard worker and a placid friend for my children.
There is no need to spend money on fertiliser as you will have something around that you can use for free. I can understand large acreage buying fertilisers, but if you are spending money on fertiliser in town you are doing it wrong.
There is no need to spend money on fertiliser as you will have something around that you can use for free. I can understand large acreage buying fertilisers, but if you are spending money on fertiliser in town you are doing it wrong.
![]() |
| Chickens, a great source of manure (dont worry they did not live like this for more than a few minutes, we were only carrying them from the incubator to the brooder and this tiny box was the safest and easiest way) |
People often complain about pesticide costs, again I have never used them. If a plant gets hammered by insects then perhaps I should grow something else. There is no point beating a dead horse, sometimes it is wiser to cut your losses and grow something else.
Some pests can be beaten using other means, others sadly can not. Cabbage white butterflies for example do not like to like to lay eggs where there are a lot of other white butterflies. I tie some string running along the length of the bed next to the brassicas. I then cut white plastic bags into small rectangles and tie them in their middle along the string. The end result looks like a heap of butterflies fluttering along the crop in the wind. Dont be fooled, this does not eliminate the pests, but it does reduce them to a sensible number. We went from several dozen caterpillars per leaf of every plant, which I was removing each day, to only 1 or 2 per entire row of plants. This cost me a little time, an old plastic bag and a length of old string that I found in the garage.
I keep slugs and snails away from seedlings by surrounding them with crushed egg shells. Apparently the slugs/snails find them too sharp and do not go over them. This has to be reapplied every now and again as birds or something steal the pieces of shell. Egg shell is virtually free, my chickens and ducks lay eggs which we eat or hatch and I use the shells either in compost or to protect seedlings.
![]() |
| Crushed egg shells protect seedlings from slugs and snails |
Herbicides
People ask me "what about weeds and weed control?". In a back yard you should not have weed trouble that you can not dig out easily enough. Large scale broad acre farms may be different, but in a back yard if you can not dig out a weed something has gone wrong.
If you have chickens or guinea pigs they can be put on a vegetable plot between crops to eat out weeds and fertilise the soil for you. Chickens can be very destructive in the vegetable garden so I would only use them between crops and I would be careful they do not scratch all the soil out of your garden.
I dont see the point of using a herbicide in a small backyard vegetable garden. If you do not have chickens or guinea pigs then pull out the weeds yourself, dont spray them. If you can not pull out the weeds yourself due to ill health or something consider mulching heavily with newspaper or something. People will give you piles of newspaper for free if you ask.
If you have chickens or guinea pigs they can be put on a vegetable plot between crops to eat out weeds and fertilise the soil for you. Chickens can be very destructive in the vegetable garden so I would only use them between crops and I would be careful they do not scratch all the soil out of your garden.
I dont see the point of using a herbicide in a small backyard vegetable garden. If you do not have chickens or guinea pigs then pull out the weeds yourself, dont spray them. If you can not pull out the weeds yourself due to ill health or something consider mulching heavily with newspaper or something. People will give you piles of newspaper for free if you ask.
Water
People often drone on and on about how much they will spend in water if they grow vegetables, in a small backyard this is not the case. When we lived in town water cost $0.55 per kiloliter, I dont know how many thousand liters I would have used watering my tiny patch but all up it would have added up to maybe a few dollars each year.
The cost of water is undoubtedly a lot higher these days and would certainly vary from town to town, even so you would probably be looking at the cost over an entire year in single digits. This is not a large cost and can easily be factored in to a productive vegetable garden. There is certainly no point complaining about such a small cost each year when the financial benefits are so great.
The cost of water is undoubtedly a lot higher these days and would certainly vary from town to town, even so you would probably be looking at the cost over an entire year in single digits. This is not a large cost and can easily be factored in to a productive vegetable garden. There is certainly no point complaining about such a small cost each year when the financial benefits are so great.
![]() |
| Duck potatoes growing in a bucket. Water is cheap, duck potatoes are expensive |
I can not put a dollar amount on your time, I also cant tell you how long you will spend gardening each week or total over a year. This will depend on how much time you are willing to spend out there.
People often talk about how gardening is great exercise and excellent for good health. Others tell me that they find gardening therapeutic. Some people claim that the clean, organic, nutrient dense food they produce will save them medical costs, doctor visits and give them greater quality of life when they are older and less sick. I dont know about this so can not comment.
People often talk about how gardening is great exercise and excellent for good health. Others tell me that they find gardening therapeutic. Some people claim that the clean, organic, nutrient dense food they produce will save them medical costs, doctor visits and give them greater quality of life when they are older and less sick. I dont know about this so can not comment.
I cant tell you the benefit/cost ratio regarding time in growing your own food in the backyard. I dont know anything about that, but I do often think perhaps my time is better spent growing my own food rather than working so that I can pay someone else to grow it for me. When we lived in town the time I spent in the garden was just time I otherwise would have spent in front of the TV.
I can grow a lot of things that I can not buy in the shops, and I can grow other things that are best fresh. Some things such as sweet corn only taste their best when eaten within 15 minutes of being picked. After that the sugars convert to starch and you lose a great deal of quality. The time it takes to drive home with your fresh corn from the shops is enough to stop it tasting its best. I find that the small amount of time required to grow corn is more than worth it when it tastes so good.
I can grow a lot of things that I can not buy in the shops, and I can grow other things that are best fresh. Some things such as sweet corn only taste their best when eaten within 15 minutes of being picked. After that the sugars convert to starch and you lose a great deal of quality. The time it takes to drive home with your fresh corn from the shops is enough to stop it tasting its best. I find that the small amount of time required to grow corn is more than worth it when it tastes so good.
![]() |
| Sorrel, you dont find this at the shops |
![]() |
| Yacon, more than worth a little time to grow this at home |
How much food can you produce in an average backyard?
Back in the old days most people grew most of what they ate, but back then life was easier and the world was a vastly different place. House blocks were generally a lot larger and people had a great deal more spare time, it was quite rare for both husband and wife to have payed employment outside of the house. Producing meat in your backyard was seen as pretty normal back then, today if you even consider butchering a chicken you would be frowned upon. Back then people rarely bought much food, unfortunately times have changed.
If you wanted to you could probably produce all of your fruit and vegetables in your yard, but few of us have the time, the space or the inclination to do that. Your yard would no longer be useful for anything other than producing food. You are better off just growing some things that you like, still having a pretty normal looking yard that is still functional, and saving a heap of money along the way. A 1m by 4m plot along the fence can be tremendously productive.
When we were in town we had two vegetable plots which were just under 2m x 2m, about 7.5 square meters together. That small amount of land produced about 10% of our vegetables. For 5 weeks each year we did not buy vegetables at all, then we got a few handfuls of vegetables throughout the rest of the year. You can see how such a small amount of land can save you rather a lot of money.If you wanted to you could probably produce all of your fruit and vegetables in your yard, but few of us have the time, the space or the inclination to do that. Your yard would no longer be useful for anything other than producing food. You are better off just growing some things that you like, still having a pretty normal looking yard that is still functional, and saving a heap of money along the way. A 1m by 4m plot along the fence can be tremendously productive.
I personally think that if you are not saving money by growing food then you are doing it wrong! If you have tried and things are not going well talk to someone who may be able to help. Just like the carrot example above you may need to change your plant choices.
Where to get heirloom vegetable seeds and perennial vegetables
There are many places that sell seeds and perennial vegetables. Whenever buying please look at things that will either be perennial and grow for multiple years, or things that you may be able to save seeds from. By doing this you will lower your costs as they will be a once off purchase. Some things will be too difficult or time consuming to save seeds, that is ok too as long as you are aware of it and are saving seeds from other things. Try to pick varieties that are different from what you can buy, many varieties that are available in shops are excellent for large scale farming and distributing over large distances but are not great for home gardens. The aims of a home vegetable garden are different to that of a broad acre monoculture.
I sell some perennial vegetables and heirloom vegetable seeds through my for sale page and can post at cost to most of mainland Australia (not Tasmania or WA). There are many other good small home seed sellers, as well as some larger ones that are good. If you deal with the smaller family run seed sellers they are more likely to offer advice if something goes wrong as well as give you fresher seeds. One of the largest and most well known heirloom seed sellers in Australia is dreadful, and ebay is very hit and miss, so do some research prior to buying anything.
You have little to lose and a lot to gain, grow some vegetables and save some money.
1 Thessalonians 4:11 and to make it your ambition to lead a quiet life: You should mind your own business and work with your hands, just as we told you,
Senin, 02 Mei 2016
Walk in her shoes CARE
A friend of mine and I decided to join CARE, an international charity, to raise awareness and funds to help African children that everyday need to walk miles and miles to fetch clean water. They are promoting Walk in her shoes (read below):

I am ready to walk for these girls and if you want to join me youre more than welcome. I am going to walk from Radford in Nottingham to the University of Nottingham Sutton Bonington Campus - Leicestershire; the moment I get my t-shirt from Care. If you want to help me and motivate me to these 11.6 miles that by foot are usually walked in 3h48 minutes, please donate asap. I will walk my shoes and feel their pain, and all you have to do is read my statements reporting how tough my walks have been, plus about how difficult their lives are in pursuit of water. All this and more in pursuit of awareness. Check my personal donation page below, Cheers!
https://walkinhershoes.everydayhero.com/uk/ivan
Minggu, 01 Mei 2016
Non flowering Sorrel in Australia
Sorrel is a perennial leaf vegetable that I always considered growing, but was not sure how good it is or if I would like it. It is reasonably difficult to find so I never bothered tracking it down. Living in such an extreme climate I do not have space or water to waste on novelty vegetables, I need hardy and productive plants. We also dont have the money to throw away if it turned out not to be worth growing.
Every source of sorrel I can find only had seeds, no one seemed to offer plants and the seeds were seemingly from poorly maintained stock and never from improved plants. I considered buying some seeds, but dont want to waste money on inferior plants or start another breeding project. One day someone kindly offered me a sorrel plant in a trade. They offered it as well as something that I really wanted so I figured I had nothing to lose.
![]() |
| Sorrel plant |
When the sorrel turned up it was a small red green stump with no leaves and very few roots. Apparently that is how they are best posted and it is how they settle in the fastest. I planted it and figured it would be a few weeks before I saw any real growth or got to try a leaf. The next day it had a new leaf and a few days later it had grown several leaves! I tried a tiny piece of a leaf to see what it tastes like. It was like any leaf vegetable really but also lemony. My kids love lemony things and often eat anything sour that they can find so I was happy.
It did not take long before I was able to divide the plant. I divided it several times by digging it up, ripping it into pieces each with a growing point, removing the leaves, and replanting. Winter came and the growth slowed, frosts did not seem to worry it. Some people say that it goes a bit dormant over winter, this may be the case but my winters can be mild and it did have some protection so it kept growing. Over spring it grew like crazy, I should have divided it into a bunch of plants but kind of forgot about it. Summer hit pretty hard, the leaves got burned by the heat a few times (as did the leaves of every fruit and vegetable I grew this year) but they kept on growing. When the weather cooled down the sorrel took off again, this time I dug it up and divided it a little. When dividing sorrel they do best if you cut off all of the leaves, it seems harsh but it will grow new leaves soon enough.
![]() |
| Sorrel leaves ready for cooking/eating |
I have read that sorrel usually has separate male and female plants, sometimes it has a plant that has male and female on the same plant, rarely the highly sort after non-flowering plants turn up. Flowering stops leaf growth for a while and also makes the leaves bitter so growers often talk of removing flower heads to extend the leaf harvest.
This plant was seed grown by its previous owner so it could have been anything. After growing it for a while this appears to be a non-flowering (or at least very reluctant to flower) individual. This means that instead of putting energy into flowers and seeds it puts all of its energy into leaf growth and dividing itself. It also means that there is no chance of it becoming a weed or crossing with anything else. When regular sorrel flowers the leaves become coarse and inedible for a while, by not flowering this plant has a much extended harvest period each year.
![]() | |
| Sorrel leaf - non flowering means more leaves |
As far as I am concerned, this plant is exhibiting every trait that I would have tried to breed for, this is an improved variety! There is apparently a variety of sorrel sold overseas known as "Profusion" which sounds similar to mine. As profusion does not flower (so it does not set seed) and importing the plants is next to impossible my variety is the closest thing we have in Australia.
Growing sorrel is simple. It likes water, good soil and full sun but grows happily enough if it is a little dry or in the shade or with poor dodgy soil or with competition from other plants. I have yet to see any pest or disease issues of any kind but am told that a leaf miner bothers it in some gardens. They say if a leaf has leaf miner to remove that leaf, destroy it, and the problem is solved. Apparently if the plant gets a lot of leaf miner before you notice you can remove all the leaves and destroy them, sorrel will grow new leaves soon enough.
Sorrel has deep roots so mines nutrients from the subsoil and brings them to the surface in its leaves. The soil life under sorrel is amazing and healthy. Permaculturalists grow sorrel as a dynamic accumulator and a compost activator. It out yields comfrey tremendously on my property, lacks the irritating hairs of comfrey, and unlike comfrey seems to be readily eaten by poultry. I consider all of this a win.
![]() |
| Small sorrel plants a few weeks after being transplanted and having all the leaves removed |
Being perennial means it is low maintenance, I plant once and then can forget about it and know that it will still be there if I want to harvest it, I do not need to collect seeds or remove flowers or anything like that. Sorrel is nutritious, like many leaf vegetables it is very high in vitamin C. Many people say that they do not let sorrel flower so that leaf growth is encouraged, with my sorrel this is unnecessary as it does not flower most years.
There are a lot of old (pre-1900) recipes that include sorrel as an integral component of the dish. Some dishes contain sorrel and very few other things, this is not just a nice herb or a garnish, it is a decent vegetable. Today sorrel features as a garnish, is often used when cooking fish to impart a lemon taste, is occasionally made into a fancy French soup, and is one of the main ingredients of green borscht. You can eat sorrel raw but it is high in oxalic acid (like many other vegetables) so it is best not to eat too much. Oxalic acid is water soluble and cooking removes most of it so you can eat cooked sorrel to your heats content.
Sorrel was commonly grown in every vegetable garden all over the world for hundreds of years then it pretty much disappeared overnight. I know of very few people who have ever grown or tasted or even know of this productive plant. The reason for this is that sorrel can not be harvested and stored and shipped to consumers, it must be harvested and used pretty much immediately. For a reliable supply you must grow your own, but that is very simple to do. For many years now people have stopped growing vegetables because they have no land, as such they miss out on tasting treasures such as sorrel.
I hope that more people grow sorrel, I especially hope that more people grow improved non-flowering forms such as this one. I would hate for this to disappear if I happen to lose my stock. I am planning on building up my sorrel in Spring, until then I can sell it in small numbers through my for sale page.
Selasa, 26 April 2016
Yellow pear tomato
Yellow pear tomatoes are beautiful to look at and highly productive. They are an old heirloom variety of tomato that dates back to the 1700s and it is still widely grown today. They are reasonably common in Australia today and sometimes even appear in supermarkets. Being so old and still being widely grown today means that this variety must have something going for it. Each year after the season is over I kick myself for not taking photos as they are truly beautiful.
![]() |
| Yellow pear tomato |
The year my first son was born I got some yellow pear tomato seeds. The plants and fruit were amazing. We have saved seed and planted them each year since then, partly out of sentiment and partly because I like this variety.
![]() |
| Yellow pear tomato seeds |
![]() |
| Yellow Pear Tomatoes - I wish I took more pictures earlier in the season |
The plants grow vigorously, we have had plants grow to well over 6 feet tall in the past. We try to stake the plants as best we can, honestly I am a bit too relaxed with that kind of thing. If you do not stake them the plants gladly root anywhere they touch the soil creating a giant patch of a tomato plant with tempting delicious fruit that is fairly inaccessible without stepping on the stems.
![]() |
| Yellow Pear Tomato flowers |
They taste rather sweet, but they do lack the rich taste of a nice paste tomato or something like that. We mostly eat them raw in salads or out of hand while walking in the garden. They can be cooked or turned into sauce but there are better varieties that have a deeper taste and darker colour if that is your plan.
![]() |
| Yellow pear tomatoes, slight variation in fruit shape |
![]() |
| This one was a bit old so the colour is a little off |
Growing Water Chestnuts in Buckets
The water chestnut (Eleocharis dulcis) is a type of sedge that is found growing in tropical wetlands of the world. They are simple to grow, highly productive, and nutritious. As well as providing food for you, they yield a decent amount of straw as well as providing habitat for frogs and water insects, all in all they are an excellent permaculture vegetable.
I always wanted to grow water chestnuts, but was never able to find any to plant. People often comment that they are cheap to buy from supermarkets so they are not worth growing, but I have never seen them for sale except in cans. I have no idea what chemicals are used on the water chestnuts that I do buy in a can. I do not know where they grow, how far they have traveled to reach me, how they are grown, or anything like that so growing my own water chestnuts organically seems like a sensible approach.
I have heard of a lot of different ways to grow water chestnuts, and I have heard a lot of people complain that they tried to grow them and failed miserably. So I thought I would write a post about how I grow them, this is not necessarily the best way, but it works for me and requires very little time and effort.
I have heard of a lot of different ways to grow water chestnuts, and I have heard a lot of people complain that they tried to grow them and failed miserably. So I thought I would write a post about how I grow them, this is not necessarily the best way, but it works for me and requires very little time and effort.
![]() |
| Water chestnuts growing in buckets |
How I grow water chestnuts
The first mistake people make is rotting the dormant water chestnut corms. I plant the corms in a small pot or punnet and keep it reasonably damp until they sprout. I used 10cm square pots that we had in the shed, I put the cheapest potting mix in and planted the corms so that they were not quite touching each other. I do not make it any more damp than I would if I were germinating tomato seeds. If you put the corms under water prior to them sprouting I believe that they will mostly rot and die. I planted them in late winter/early spring and kept them away from frost.
I then watered like I would any seedling until they were about 5cm tall. At this stage I put the pot in an ice cream container and filled water half way up the pot, a few days later I put water up to the top of the pot so that the soil level was at the water level. I then left the water level there for a few weeks. This gives the water chestnut a chance to grow roots and the leaves start to collect energy for the plant ready for the next step.
People make a few mistakes in the nest step, they make the water too deep and they do not use enough soil. Water chestnuts grow in soil, that is where they produce their crop, so if there is not enough soil then they will produce a small crop or a crop of very small corms. They are an emergent plant, which means that while the roots are below water, the top of the plant must be in the air otherwise they will die. I then separate the corms and plant them in soil which had about 10cm of water on top of it. In this way the little plants were just under the surface of the water and would grow out of the water in a few days. You can make the water deeper, but not too deep, up to about 30cm should not harm the plants but any deeper than this and they may struggle.
In a perfect world they never experience any frost, unfortunately mine seem to see a few light frosts when they are young. I try to make sure the frost they see is not too hard and they seem to do fine with it. Interestingly they handled a light frost better than duck potatoes. They even had some ice on top of the water a few times, while it is less than ideal they are hardy enough to cope with that.
The water chestnuts then grow during the warm weather and die down in autumn. When they die down the water level is dropped and the corms are left to dry a bit in the soil. When they have dried down a bit they are dug up and eaten or stored. If they are ever completely dry they will die.
Where I grow water chestnuts
People make a few mistakes in the nest step, they make the water too deep and they do not use enough soil. Water chestnuts grow in soil, that is where they produce their crop, so if there is not enough soil then they will produce a small crop or a crop of very small corms. They are an emergent plant, which means that while the roots are below water, the top of the plant must be in the air otherwise they will die. I then separate the corms and plant them in soil which had about 10cm of water on top of it. In this way the little plants were just under the surface of the water and would grow out of the water in a few days. You can make the water deeper, but not too deep, up to about 30cm should not harm the plants but any deeper than this and they may struggle.
In a perfect world they never experience any frost, unfortunately mine seem to see a few light frosts when they are young. I try to make sure the frost they see is not too hard and they seem to do fine with it. Interestingly they handled a light frost better than duck potatoes. They even had some ice on top of the water a few times, while it is less than ideal they are hardy enough to cope with that.
The water chestnuts then grow during the warm weather and die down in autumn. When they die down the water level is dropped and the corms are left to dry a bit in the soil. When they have dried down a bit they are dug up and eaten or stored. If they are ever completely dry they will die.
![]() |
| Water chestnuts growing in the shade of a plum tree |
Where I grow water chestnuts
Ideally you would grow water chestnuts on the edge of a pond or slow flowing stream. In a perfect world they would colonise this water edge and all you would do is go and collect them. Many people, including myself, do not have access to a pond or stream so this method is unachievable.
Many people who do not have access to a pond grow them in a bathtub, while this method sounds great it takes up space and you have to be able to find a free bathtub. Finding free things where I live is almost impossible so I had to think of another way. I have heard of people growing them in an icecream container filled with soil and submerged in a fish pond, they say they yield about 30 corms per container. Again this sounds great but requires a fish pond which I do not have.
People often tell of growing them in styrofoam broccoli boxes that they get for free from the fruit and veg shop, out here we can not buy styrofoam boxes let alone convince a shop owner to give them away so I had to keep thinking.
There are a lot of plastic tubs and boxes that I have seen used, but they all cost too much, I want to produce high quality food for cheap.
I found some cheap buckets for sale, buckets hold water, they look ok, they are easy to find in pretty much every town, they are large enough for one corm each, and they do not take up too much space. If you only had a balcony this method would still work. So I decided that buckets would be the containers I would use in which to grow water chestnuts.
I then dug up some subsoil clay, mixed it with animal manure, put it in the buckets to about 5cm from the top, and filled with water. The soil settles a bit over the next little while so you end up with more water above the soil level.
It is important to leave it for a few weeks because if you planted directly into this the water chestnuts would rot. Any weed seeds germinate in the wet soil, the weeds can not survive being constantly under water so they die off reasonably quickly and pose no problems. Over the next few weeks the water goes green, then crystal clear, then green a few times as algal blooms deal with excess nutrients. This is good, do not worry when this happens as this is what you want. The water seems to do this on and off throughout the entire growing season, again do not worry as this is normal.
People are often afraid of clay or subsoil, but they hold a lot of minerals. Being underwater it makes the soil soft enough for plant roots to penetrate and renders these minerals available to the growing plants. The only thing to watch for is that no rocks are in the mix.
Once the water has had a few weeks to work itself out I then plant the water chestnuts in the fertile mud. They were not tall enough to reach the air yet, but that is ok. By now they should be strong enough to grow a bit to reach out of the water. I also put a bit of duckweed floating on the water surface. The duckweed grows to cover the water surface and blocks light from the algae. It also slows evaporation, cools the soil by providing shade and helps out in a bunch of other ways. If you have access to azolla I would include that too as it fixes nitrogen from the soil and fertilises your water chestnuts.
As the water chestnuts grow to fill the bucket they send out rhizomes, I had a spare bucket of mud so broke off one of these rhizomes and planted it. It did not take long before it grew so much that I could not tell which bucket had a corm planted and which one was from the rhizome. From here I simply kept the water at the top of the bucket by filling it up each afternoon when watering other vegetables.
Everywhere you read and everyone you talk to will say that you must grow water chestnuts in direct sun and avoid shade at all costs. At first this is what I did and it went well for me, but then summer came along and it got too hot. Even though there was still water in the buckets the plants were suffering from the relentless heat. Being in buckets made it simple to move the water chestnuts under the shade of a tree. I moved 2 buckets at first to see if that helped, those plants started growing again while the ones in direct sun were still going poorly. Now I grow all the water chestnuts under part shade, they seem to be growing fine there.
How I harvest water chestnuts
When the time is right the foliage of the water chestnuts starts to yellow off. This is a signal to stop watering the buckets. When they have dried off for a while you then dig through and collect the water chestnuts. It is important not to let the corms freeze if you are planning on replanting them the next year as freezing will kill them. If you plan on eating them freezing is fine.
Many people who do not have access to a pond grow them in a bathtub, while this method sounds great it takes up space and you have to be able to find a free bathtub. Finding free things where I live is almost impossible so I had to think of another way. I have heard of people growing them in an icecream container filled with soil and submerged in a fish pond, they say they yield about 30 corms per container. Again this sounds great but requires a fish pond which I do not have.
People often tell of growing them in styrofoam broccoli boxes that they get for free from the fruit and veg shop, out here we can not buy styrofoam boxes let alone convince a shop owner to give them away so I had to keep thinking.
There are a lot of plastic tubs and boxes that I have seen used, but they all cost too much, I want to produce high quality food for cheap.
I found some cheap buckets for sale, buckets hold water, they look ok, they are easy to find in pretty much every town, they are large enough for one corm each, and they do not take up too much space. If you only had a balcony this method would still work. So I decided that buckets would be the containers I would use in which to grow water chestnuts.
I then dug up some subsoil clay, mixed it with animal manure, put it in the buckets to about 5cm from the top, and filled with water. The soil settles a bit over the next little while so you end up with more water above the soil level.
It is important to leave it for a few weeks because if you planted directly into this the water chestnuts would rot. Any weed seeds germinate in the wet soil, the weeds can not survive being constantly under water so they die off reasonably quickly and pose no problems. Over the next few weeks the water goes green, then crystal clear, then green a few times as algal blooms deal with excess nutrients. This is good, do not worry when this happens as this is what you want. The water seems to do this on and off throughout the entire growing season, again do not worry as this is normal.
People are often afraid of clay or subsoil, but they hold a lot of minerals. Being underwater it makes the soil soft enough for plant roots to penetrate and renders these minerals available to the growing plants. The only thing to watch for is that no rocks are in the mix.
![]() |
| Water chestnuts growing in a bucket with duckweed |
Once the water has had a few weeks to work itself out I then plant the water chestnuts in the fertile mud. They were not tall enough to reach the air yet, but that is ok. By now they should be strong enough to grow a bit to reach out of the water. I also put a bit of duckweed floating on the water surface. The duckweed grows to cover the water surface and blocks light from the algae. It also slows evaporation, cools the soil by providing shade and helps out in a bunch of other ways. If you have access to azolla I would include that too as it fixes nitrogen from the soil and fertilises your water chestnuts.
As the water chestnuts grow to fill the bucket they send out rhizomes, I had a spare bucket of mud so broke off one of these rhizomes and planted it. It did not take long before it grew so much that I could not tell which bucket had a corm planted and which one was from the rhizome. From here I simply kept the water at the top of the bucket by filling it up each afternoon when watering other vegetables.
Everywhere you read and everyone you talk to will say that you must grow water chestnuts in direct sun and avoid shade at all costs. At first this is what I did and it went well for me, but then summer came along and it got too hot. Even though there was still water in the buckets the plants were suffering from the relentless heat. Being in buckets made it simple to move the water chestnuts under the shade of a tree. I moved 2 buckets at first to see if that helped, those plants started growing again while the ones in direct sun were still going poorly. Now I grow all the water chestnuts under part shade, they seem to be growing fine there.
How I harvest water chestnuts
When the time is right the foliage of the water chestnuts starts to yellow off. This is a signal to stop watering the buckets. When they have dried off for a while you then dig through and collect the water chestnuts. It is important not to let the corms freeze if you are planning on replanting them the next year as freezing will kill them. If you plan on eating them freezing is fine.
After harvest I do sell water chestnuts for planting and growing on my For Sale page. I do not accept pre-orders as I can not guarantee that I will have any to spare. They are mostly available during Winter and early Spring.
I wrote another post here about the yield I got from a bucket of water chestnuts.
I wrote another post here about the yield I got from a bucket of water chestnuts.
Diposting oleh diergo di 01.58 0 komentar
Label: Aqua, broadbeans, buckets, chestnuts, growing, in, water
Langganan:
Postingan (Atom)







































